oil drain bolt

[Redhawk]

Im attempting to do the first 600 mile oil change and well, I cant even get the drain plug off. I do know it is 17mm and to turn counter clockwise, left loosey. but it will not budge. I have read on the forums that most likely Yamaha way over torqued the bolts on most everyones Fz6. Does anyone have any advice that can give me on how to break it loose.
Thanks

[sportrider]

use a ratchet with a long handle or cheater bar, that will do the trick!!!

[shaggystyle]

Yeah, I ran into this same problem on my first oil change as well. I was really worried about the amount of torque it took to pop that thing. Sportrider is right, increase your leverage. I just stuck a scrap piece of pipe about 3 feet long on the end of my wrench. Even then it still took a lot of force before it finally broke loose, so be careful not to hurt yourself or your bike.

[trailblazer87]

Just got done with an oil change and my arm is bleeding a little when the ratchet slipped and my arm hit the peg

[wrightme43]

put bike on center stand. Take a ratcheting tie strap and pull just a little tension from the front wheel to the cross bar of the centerstand.

Put a 6 point that is SIX side socket 17mm on a 3/8ths or 1/2" ratchet. Get a section of 1" pvc pipe, and use that to increase leverage. Always push with your palms and not by wraping your hands around things.

Another way.
Same tiestrap.
1/2" ratchet, 6 point 17mm and a ball peen hammer. Tap the ratchet handle in the proper direction

[Botch]

Before going to too extreme measures. I think I'd let the bike cool down and try it cold first. Depending on the metal compositions of both the case and the bolt, the bolt may be tighter, or looser, when the engine is warm. If you can break it loose cold, do just that, break it loose, snug it back up just a little bit, and then run the bike to warm the oil back up before removing it all the way.

[Hound]

It took a lot to get it off. It was way over tightened. I spent the next 3 days paranoid it would pop off while I rode because I tightened it correctly .

[Redhawk]

I finally got the drain plug busted loose. Thanks to everyone who replied with tips/suggestions. I ended up finding a small pipe and fitting it on the end of the ratchet! Thought about actually buying a 3/8 breaker bar but the pipe and ratchet did the job. As for the oil filter it wasnt bad at all. I ended up using a Mobil 1 Extended performance M-108 filter with 3 quarts of Amsoil 10w-40 Synthetic Motorcycle oil. The bike definitely runs a bit quieter and much smoother. The 550 miles I had on the Yamalube factory oil was dirty and I could see small metal flakes. I have read in other forums that the drain plug is supposed to have a crush washer but mine didnt. Even the manual says to inspect the washer. Some people have said theres didnt even come with a washer like mine.
Next I think I will top off my radiator with a couple ounces of Redline's Water Wetter to help keep the temps down a couple degrees.

Everyone ride safe and have fun!!!!!!!

[Hound]

There was no washer on mine.

[pedwards89]

Changed my oil this weekend too. The oil drain plug should most definitely have a crush washer. The drain plug is steel & the crankcase is alloy, as such the plug should not be excessively tight, 43 Nm (31 ftlb). The 'engine oil drain bolt gasket' should be replaced with every usage.

I had trouble with the oil filter. This should be little more than hand tight. I had a bugger of a game removing it. In the end I had to use a hammer & punch on the rolled flange to 'inch' it around a little, until my strap wrench would grip it. This was just 2000 miles after the first oil change done by the Yamaha Approved Dealership!