OSO2K Setback Plate Install

[Hellgate]

Okay out of popular demand is the OSO2K Setback Plate Install. Before I get into this many thanks to Louis (OSO2K) for taking the time to make these. It is a HUGE amount of effort to have custom machining done. That and all the Doubting Thomas' are a huge PITA. Also thanks goes to Mattcosta7 and afpreppie04 for the great ideas on how to deal with the shift rod; I pirated from both parties! (There are plenty of good wheels out there, why invent a new one???)

So to begin with here are the plates and the look of the stock rearset placement for reference.

Setback Plate Install 001.jpgSetback Plate Install 005.jpgSetback Plate Install 006.jpg

To do this mod you will need four bolts (5/16" X 1 1/2" Stainless Steel), four nuts (5/16" Stainless Steel Nylocks) and four to eight washers (5/16" Zinc Coated - couldn't find any SS).

Setback Plate Install 009.jpg

[Hellgate]

First the brake side, the easy part.

Remove the rearset and keep the hardware, you will reuse them. Then install the set back plate. Note that the steel "teet" goes towards the bottom, not the top. The teet is used to keep the rearset solidly mounted to the setback plate.
Setback Plate Install 008.jpg

A quick aside here, if you want to greatly reduce the amount of flex in the stock rubber mounting, simply flip the stock washers around BACKWARDS. This will give you a metal to metal contact and all but eliminate the flex, this is a free mod and will help shifting.
Setback Plate Install 007.jpg

Once the set back plate is installed, install the rearset to the setback plate. You will need to readjust your lever as the setback plate rocks the rearset back just slightly. No big deal. I also recommend you use a drop of red LockTite on the threads.
Setback Plate Install 010.jpgSetback Plate Install 011.jpg

[Hellgate]

Now the tricky part, but not hard to do, the shift side.

Like the brake side remove the rearset and install the setback plate. I found that with this plate the "teet" stuck out too far to mount the rearset on flush to the setback plate. I shimmed between the plate and the rearset to make a solid metal to metal contact.

I read the posts from Mattcosta7 and afpreppie04 to help figure out the shift rod. http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/fz6-m...hift-swap.html (setback plates Installed and gp shift swap)

With this mod I wanted to keep the shifting standard whereas Matt choose to use GP shifting. You can choose which ever one you want, both work well.

I tired several combinations but here's what I ended up doing; putting a double bend in the shift rod. The bend is very easy to do and you do not need to heat the rod first.
Setback Plate Install 018.jpg

To get this to work I eyeballed where the first bend needed to be and marked the point on the rod with a Sharpie.
Setback Plate Install 012.jpg

Then I used two box end wrenches and my fence to bend the shift rod. (Yeah next year I'll buy a house with a garage so I can have a real vice.)
Setback Plate Install 015.jpg

At this point you will need to begin "playing" with the fit. I removed the transmission shift shaft mount and flipped it backwards. Then I had to shim the rearset itself; Matt used washers between the setback plate and the rearset. Once I began to play with the set I now understood why he did that. Instead I decided to shim the shift lever itself, thus keeping the rear set towards the center of the bike. Note that I used one extra washer, not the two in the photo, one is stock.
Setback Plate Install 013.jpg

After install, fiddle, test ride, do over twice, I got it. The bike rides great and shifts wonderfully. All in all the mod isn't too bad to do and give a much more agressive postion and greatly increases ground clearance. If I grind peg now I am going waaaaay too fast!
Setback Plate Install 019.jpg

[DefyInertia]

Did you have those at your TD last weekend???

[Hellgate]

Originally Posted by DefyInertia

Did you have those at your TD last weekend???

No I didn't, could have used them however. I just put them on this afternoon.

[DefyInertia]

Originally Posted by Hellgate

No I didn't, could have used them however. I just put them on this afternoon.

I bet they make a HUGE difference at the track! They are also great for those who simply want to change of the riding position a little bit. I guess you HAVE to sign of up for another track day now...no choice really. shucks.

[ready2goriding]

Are these being made for the general public? I'm interested! FZ1 bars moved my torso fwd, but toes are pointed straight down!

	FZ1-Forum

[reiobard]

those look great!!! Good looking mod and functional too. Let us know when you get them to the track again how you like them

[Nelly]

Top Job Pete,
I love the analogy of "There are already some great wheels out there".

With that in mind,
Can you tell me the length of the shift leaver before you make your first bend and the washer size to make the shims?
I know it seems daft however, if I am lucky enough to score a set from louis. When I do the mod I would like all of the parts there and ready to go.

Thanks in advance mate.

Nelly

PS, I am guessing that it is essential to remove the center stand in order to utilise the extra ground clearance?

[Hellgate]

Originally Posted by Nelly

Top Job Pete,
I love the analogy of \\"There are already some great wheels out there\\".

With that in mind,
Can you tell me the length of the shift leaver before you make your first bend and the washer size to make the shims?
I know it seems daft however, if I am lucky enough to score a set from louis. When I do the mod I would like all of the parts there and ready to go.

Thanks in advance mate.

Nelly

PS, I am guessing that it is essential to remove the center stand in order to utilise the extra ground clearance?

Hi Nelly,

I used all stock parts except for the nuts, bolts and washer.

As for the shift rod I simply held the rod up and put a tick mark on it. I didn't measure anything; all eyeball. I was trying to make the rod follow the contour of the frame. As you hold it up you'll see what I mean. As far as the length of the rod I positioned the clamp on the transmission shift shaft towards the rear of the bike to shorten the length from there to the rearset. Like I said it took a few tries to fiddle it into place. The key, because I didn't make my bends sharp enough, was to use the washer behind the shift lever. The washer really helped with alignment.

Just give it a try and you'll get it.