Metisse lowering kit

[mojan]

Originally Posted by wing8872

I ordered the kit and received it. My dealer just told me that the part that is to be replaced is the same size as the one that is to be removed. I suspect that there is something different about the threads on the end of the spring strut eye but haven't seen the old part so I can't confirm it. If anyone can confirm this, I'd be great full.

The other item I ordered through Wild Hair Accessories is the European lowered seat. It's about 2 cm lower. The model number is ZUB-FZ6SI-TZ-BA FZ 6. It's stuck in customs atm but they assure me it will be shipped soon. As this is not an item normally carried by Wild Hair Accessories, it's a special order.

Not being able to get my feet flat is the most unnerving part about riding my 08 FZ6. Otherwise, I love it. Fun bike

I assume the dealer did the install for you. Did they lower the front? and have you ridden it since the installation. Notice much difference?

[sideslider]

where there any changes to the kick or center stand?

[wing8872]

Originally Posted by mojan

I assume the dealer did the install for you. Did they lower the front? and have you ridden it since the installation. Notice much difference?

I decided to hold off on the installation until I could get some clearification. I was hoping someone reading this thread would know as the dealer told me that the parts to replace were the same size.

[FattyLumpkin]

Okay, here are the pics I took with my cell phone from my Metisse lowering kit installation:

You don't get much for $195 delivered. I think that the white plastic washer serves little to no use and was just added so that they can call it a "kit".

The first step in the installation is to remove the rear brake caliper, tire, and tire shroud. Then remove the rear shock.

It is probably difficult to tell from this picture, but the new shock end (the Metisse "kit") is about 3/8" shorter than the stock shock end. I think you get an inch of lowering because of the way that the shock attaches to the rear arm and the 3/8" is multiplied to acheive 1" lowering.

The next step is to disassemble the stock shock. The picture shows how I did it using two clamps. I do not recommend or condone this method. It is probably not the best way to compress the spring, but when I don't have the right tool for the job I improvise.

The instructions that come with the lowering kit say to "Tighten the piston rod of the shock strut in the bench vise (use aluminium jaws in order not to damage the piston rod). Heat and unscrew the spring strut eye." Well, tightening the piston rod in the vise and heating it didn't work for me. No matter how hard I gripped the rod with the vise, it still turned when I went to loosen the stock strut eye. I did have to apply heat, but ended up using a pipe wrench on the rod. After, I used a light sandpaper to remove the light marks left on the rod by the pipe wrench. If you grip the rod at the end nearest the eye, there is little to no chance that this part of the rod will ever make it into the shock.

I didn't take a picture of the process, but I had to use a 17mm socket and the vise to press out the bearing from the stock strut eye and then used the same socket and vise to press it into the Metisse strut eye. Make sure you remove the rubber seals from both sides of the eye before pressing the bearing so that you don't damage them. They can be removed with a screw driver by lightly prying. This image shows the Metisse strut eye with the original bearing and rubber seals pressed in.

Here is the shock before I screwed on the Metisse strut eye. The white plastic washer is placed between the washer that retains the spring and the shock absorber bump stop. I don't think that it does much except maybe it allows the shock travel to be less before hitting the bump stop. I am 5' 8" and weigh 159 pounds so I don't expect to be bottoming out the shock too often.

Installation is the reversal of the dismantling process.

Although not flat footed, I do notice that I am definitely closer to the ground. It used to be a chore to back the bike out of the garage. Now it's a breeze. If I wore boots, I could probably stand flat footed.

I didn't lower the front end to match the lowering of the rear. I am not sure that I am going to. I find that the seat is more comfortable now that it is not leaning so forward and pushing me towards the gas tank. I think I like the ride better this way.

[wing8872]

That was exactly what I was looking for. The pics say it all.

[dako81]

Originally Posted by FattyLumpkin

...I didn't lower the front end to match the lowering of the rear. I am not sure that I am going to. I find that the seat is more comfortable now that it is not leaning so forward and pushing me towards the gas tank. I think I like the ride better this way.

How is your headlight alignment after this mod? Or have you not ridden at night yet?

Just curious if you adjusted them.

[FattyLumpkin]

I have driven the bike at night (last night) and didn't notice a difference with the rear end being lowered an inch and not lowering the front. You asked a very good question though. I will check my alignment tonight. I don't notice a difference but maybe oncoming traffic does. I am thinking that I will find that the headlight alignment is probably not too far out of whack. If you ride with a passenger on any bike, the rear end is probably close to an inch lower than normal.

From research on the Internet, it looks like the top of the intense part of the low beam should be at or below the height of the headlight from 25 feet away. My garage is about 25 feet long, so I should be able to check this in the garage by parking at the entrance and shining to the back wall, while sitting on the bike for a real world scenario.

As far as the kick stand and center stand are concerned, there is very little noticeable difference. The bike still has plenty of lean on the kick stand. If you want, I can take a picture of the bike from the rear while on the kick stand so you can see for yourself. The center stand is not an issue at all. It works normally.

[hot4teach]

Honestly, this looks like a part any simple machine shop could make easily for less than $50. It actually seams like you could cut the stock one shorter, drill and tap it if it needs to be and reinstall it.

[FattyLumpkin]

Originally Posted by hot4teach

Honestly, this looks like a part any simple machine shop could make easily for less than $50. It actually seams like you could cut the stock one shorter, drill and tap it if it needs to be and reinstall it.

I completely agree. I said in a previous post that it looks like it should cost $25 at the most. I really didn't know what I was going to get when I ordered it. On the plus side, it did what it was supposed to do.

[FattyLumpkin]

Originally Posted by dako81

How is your headlight alignment after this mod? Or have you not ridden at night yet?

Just curious if you adjusted them.

I measured the height of the center of the brightness band just in front of the bike and then the center of the brightness band on the back of the garage at about 23 feet in front of the bike. The center of the brightest band was about 8 inches higher than just in front of the bike. I adjusted the headlights so that the center of the band is at the same height as just in front of the bike, when I am sitting on the bike. Apparently, plus or minus 4 inches is acceptable, but not 8.

Thanks for the heads up on that. It's 2 AM, I just got back from a night ride and I think I have them adjusted perfectly now.

I did notice that when I sit on the bike, the headlight shines about 5 inches higher on the back wall compared to when I am not sitting on the bike. I made the adjustment to level with me sitting on the bike.