First oil change

[reiobard]

Ok, i know i am cheaping out on this but i am looking to do my 600 mile service myself. I got the oil filter but am thinking of using Supertech synthetic oil for this service,

now before the flames fly, i am planning on doing another change in another couple hundred miles and would like to know if the Supertech Synthetic is going to be the wrong kind for the bike transmission.

any knowledge on that oil? I tried the search and there are a few using the filter but nobody using the oil, whats the reasoning?

[FZ6inNH]

Originally Posted by reiobard

Ok, i know i am cheaping out on this but i am looking to do my 600 mile service myself. I got the oil filter but am thinking of using Supertech synthetic oil for this service,

now before the flames fly, i am planning on doing another change in another couple hundred miles and would like to know if the Supertech Synthetic is going to be the wrong kind for the bike transmission.

any knowledge on that oil? I tried the search and there are a few using the filter but nobody using the oil, whats the reasoning?

I've posted this in another thread but here it is again. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

In a nutshell, you don't want to use any synthetic until you're engine is thoroughly broken in (about 1500 street miles). You'll be doing more damage than good. I have 75 miles on my bike and will be doing and oil/filter tomorrow. I've used the racer's methods of engine breakin for years and have never had a failure. This article is just about dead-on. Please don't switch yet!

You're not cheaping out, you're saving yourself VALUABLE dollars! They aren't going to do much more than the oil, filter and check all possible bolts, nuts and bearings for correct torque specs. You can do this all yourself for nothing more than time.

[reiobard]

Originally Posted by FZ6inNH

I've posted this in another thread but here it is again. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

In a nutshell, you don't want to use any synthetic until you're engine is thoroughly broken in. You'll be doing more damage than good. I have 75 miles on my bike and will be doing and oil/filter tomorrow. I've used the racer's methods of engine breakin for years and have never had a failure. This article is just about dead-on. Please don't switch yet!

well i am easily swayed at this point, if i put this jug in the closet until next change or so, is it even the correct oil, what am i looking to avoid as opposed to typical Car oils, i might just head back out and get normal oil, but once again, i know that some oils can and cannot be used in bikes,

[Raid The Revenge]

I've been currently taking a scythe to the newest quest: OIL.

I learned a very interesting point from a couple of WHITE BEARDED people. They said your first oil changes are very important on a new engine.

Here's what you should do.

Grab your OWNER'S MANUAL and look at the ENGINE BREAK-IN PERIOD. It'll say you shouldn't have high RPM's for a long period of time. The reason for this has something to do with the WELDING.

I was like: What do you mean by WELDING?

They were like: Japanese people designed the engine to have tighter points than required.

I was like: You mean like girls?

They were like: Yes. Virgin points are really enclosed...

I was like: ...and after they get impacted for a prolonged time...

They were like: ...they get looser.

-Okay! So a virgin engine has tighter points, causing more friction, generating more HEAT!

(At this point, I thought the subject was getting very immature. I LOVED IT!!)

After a time, the engine will BREAK-IN, causing connecting points to loosen, causing less friction, generating less HEAT!

--Claud said it wasn't funny. I thought different...

REGULAR OIL is grainy and allows BREAK-IN to happen properly.
SYNTHETIC OIL is smooth and DOESN'T allow BREAK-IN to happen.

---What happens if I use Synthetic Oil?
Your engine won't BREAK-IN, but it will generate MORE HEAT.

---What's the best solution?
Use REGULAR OIL during the initital BREAK-IN period, then switch to SYNTHETIC after that!!

[sportrider]

make sure whatever oil you use doesn't say energy efficient on it or your clutch will slip. I'm a fan of Yamalube I'll turn 15000 miles tomorrow and I haven't had a problem.

[reiobard]

Originally Posted by Elm

I've been currently taking a scythe to the newest quest: OIL.

I learned a very interesting point from a couple of WHITE BEARDED people. They said your first oil changes are very important on a new engine.

Here's what you should do.

Grab your OWNER'S MANUAL and look at the ENGINE BREAK-IN PERIOD. It'll say you shouldn't have high RPM's for a long period of time. The reason for this has something to do with the WELDING.

I was like: What do you mean by WELDING?

They were like: Japanese people designed the engine to have tighter points than required.

I was like: You mean like girls?

They were like: Yes. Virgin points are really enclosed...

I was like: ...and after they get impacted for a prolonged time...

They were like: ...they get looser.

-Okay! So a virgin engine has tighter points, causing more friction, generating more HEAT!

(At this point, I thought the subject was getting very immature. I LOVED IT!!)

After a time, the engine will BREAK-IN, causing connecting points to loosen, causing less friction, generating less HEAT!

--Claud said it wasn't funny. I thought different...

REGULAR OIL is grainy and allows BREAK-IN to happen properly.
SYNTHETIC OIL is smooth and DOESN'T allow BREAK-IN to happen.

---What happens if I use Synthetic Oil?
Your engine won't BREAK-IN, but it will generate MORE HEAT.

---What's the best solution?
Use REGULAR OIL during the initital BREAK-IN period, then switch to SYNTHETIC after that!!

Ok, so your two have swayed me, what am i on the lookout for with any oil, i know there is one rating in particular that i can't think of that is bad for MC tranny's. what is the forbidden rating?

[sportrider]

Originally Posted by reiobard

Ok, so your two have swayed me, what am i on the lookout for with any oil, i know there is one rating in particular that i can't think of that is bad for MC tranny's. what is the forbidden rating?

API/ SM energy conserving

[FZ6inNH]

Until it is broken in, you are pretty much OK with most non-detergent SAE oils. The detergent additives do damage to the clutch plates thus staying away from those. Most any auto oil will work. I just use the Texaco brand by the case from BJ's Wholesale until I can put that first good load of Rotella or Mobil One in!

What weight is the synthetic you bought?

[reiobard]

Originally Posted by FZ6inNH

Until it is broken in, you are pretty much OK with most non-detergent SAE oils. The detergent additives do damage to the clutch plates thus staying away from those. Most any auto oil will work. I just use the Texaco brand by the case from BJ's Wholesale until I can put that first good load of Rotella or Mobil One in!

What weight is the synthetic you bought?

15-40, i can use it in the wifes car that burns oil like a SOB, or just return the stuff and buy good stuff for my next service, I went over my 600 miles and wanted to "make up for it" on my next change so i was going to cheap out this change and do it again next weekend...

[Raid The Revenge]

I use CASTROL 10W 40 SAE motorcycle oil for REGULAR.

I use MOBIL 1 SYNTHETIC or AMSOIL SYNTHETIC [10W 40] motorcycle oil later.

--Synthetic is more expensive.