WTF is wrong with my charging system?

[abacall]

I guess the gremlins couldn't even hold out for a month.
I got the bike from a member here. He warned me that the battery had problems, he tried a tender, and it didn't work right. So he got another tender (Optimate3). When I test rode the bike it didn't start. He charged it with the tender for ten minutes and it started right up.
When I got it home, the next day it was dead again. So, I replaced the battery thinking it probably just wasn't recoverable.
Well, I went for a long ride today (260 miles). On my way home, while in stop and go traffic the engine light went on. I thought it was a temperature warning (it was over 90 and traffic was hardly moving) since every time I drove over 20 it shut off.
I get home, I tried to restart the bike a few minutes later and ..... nothing. Just clicking..

The bike has the BD dual-light mod done, and nothing else. That is the only thing I can think of that might be causing me headaches.

Can anyone point me in the right direction? Anyone with the BD light mod have problems with charging? Could the mod not be installed correctly and draining the battery? The clock stays on all the time, even with the key out, normal????????

Sorry, I'm frustrated...

[damnpoor]

It's normal for the clock to stay on.

[SteveL]

I had a very similar problem - see http://www.fz6-forum.com/forum/garag...t-battery.html (Engine warning light after flat battery) (PS - I just saw that you already replied to that thread - sorry to hear that your problem wasn't resolved by the new battery)

I charged the battery using a slow charger and it seems to have solved my problem - after a long ride and a cold overnight, the bike started fine the next day.

This won't help with the problem of not being able to start your bike, but in my case I think the engine warning light was coming on due to the idle speed being too low.

I assume my original problem was because of the heated handgrips that I installed, since they're connected directly to the battery. The instructions say that they'll switch off automatically when the voltage drops below 11 V, but as a test I've disconnected them to see whether there is still a problem after a few days of not riding.

I also have BD's dual headlight mod and it's possible that this is implicated - but it seems hard to believe.

Good luck, I'll keep you posted on how things go with my very similar problem.

Steve

[wrightme43]

You replaced the battery? Exact same symptoms?

Is that right?

I have the 2004 and the digital clock is on 24/7. The dual headlight mod as I have seen it should not be an issue as it doesn't create any significant draw the system shouldn't be able to handle providing it is operating as it should. What I want to know is (A) if the charging system is operating at spec. IF so, (B) would suggest there is an abnormal draw creating a discharge large enough to drain the battery over time (like a long ride). I would be testing the system for spec and draw under load and no load conditions to determine where the juice is going. Note: I would be doing a load test on that battery to and it wouldn't matter if the battery were new or not.

[abacall]

Originally Posted by wrightme43

Is that right?

No, it's just not right.... Total BS. Driving me nuts..
I have the old battery, and I'm trickle charging it now.

[abacall]

Originally Posted by HavBlue

What I want to know is (A) if the charging system is operating at spec. IF so, (B) would suggest there is an abnormal draw creating a discharge large enough to drain the battery over time (like a long ride). I would be testing the system for spec and draw under load and no load conditions to determine where the juice is going. Note: I would be doing a load test on that battery to and it wouldn't matter if the battery were new or not.

How can I test if the charging system is operating at spec?

[08fz6]

a voltage meter... could possibly be the stator thats is the major part of the charging system, if you dont know what your doing best to have a shop look at it. dont just go buying electrical parts on a wim they are way too expensive for that and no dealer will let you return them....

[wrightme43]

No my friend I was asking you a question to help trouble shoot your problem.

The headlights are on a relay. We need to move in a specific order to get to the answer.

I will be glad to help you if you like.

Steve is quite right as trouble shooting requires specific testing as there is a symbiosis between components in the system. Charging a battery is fine but how does that battery hold up under test. Also, a battery that is not up to par will require a good charging system to work harder than it needs to to maintain a charge. This is where load testing comes into play and to be more specific, you can test the cells of a battery individually.