The debate is over. Rotella T wins!

[wolfc70]

Originally Posted by OneTrack

Are you saying that I shouldn't be using Rotella T synthetic 5w40 in my FZ6, but should be using 15w40?

Yes, do not touch your bike as it may be in a fragile state, it may explode or implode at any time!



The slight extra ash will only be a concern if you bike consumes more than "normal" amounts of oil. Enjoy your ride!

[OneTrack]

Originally Posted by Nelly

I agree with Botch, Good luck with your own repairs.
The debate is not close though as we can't Rotella here in the UK.

Good luck.

Nelly

Thanks Nelly!
I'm sure that there would be an equivalent product to Shell Rotella T synth. available in the UK.
As I mentioned, I would NEVER have believed anyone telling this story if I hadn't experienced it myself. It's like I'm riding a completely different bike, and a better one at that. I've done (probably...) thousands of oil changes in my career and I've never noticed a difference caused by the brand of oil that I installed. In this case, replacing the Amsoil with Rotella caused a distinct difference. I have no (technical) clue as to why there is such a marked and noticeable difference, but I will never use Amsoil again, period.....Full Stop.

[pottie]

We ve been using this Rotella since Mobil 1 is not fully systatic anymore
We even use it for our car now even for Euro car
Oil is easy to find which is Walmart or local shop insteed of going to dealer
Thank s for write up

[bmccrary]

Originally Posted by pottie

We ve been using this Rotella since Mobil 1 is not fully systatic anymore
We even use it for our car now even for Euro car
Oil is easy to find which is Walmart or local shop insteed of going to dealer
Thank s for write up

Support your local dealer, not walmart

-bryan

[BranNwebster]

Motorcycle specific oil is hype, and a way for you to spend 10+ dollars a quart.

Rotella synthetic is 16 dollars a gallon my clutch doesn't slip and no longer do my most of my gear changes clunk. In fact switching to rotella was the most significant change I have ever felt on any vehicle. And I was using 12dollar motul myself.

I do agree Rotella synthetic with the purolator pro does win.

From the oil bible.
http://www.ecoadvanced.net/pdf/motor-oil-bible.pdf

FRICTION MODIFIERS
Motorcycle manufacturers and dealers also refer to "friction modifiers" as being another reason not to
use API SJ rated automotive oils. This MIGHT be the only somewhat valid point they make. However, it
is not justified in all cases. Let me explain the issue more fully.
API SJ specifications mandate increased fuel economy over previous API ratings. In order to meet this
qualification, motor oil manufacturers must add friction modifiers to their motor oil formulations. It is
believed that these friction modifiers MAY cause clutch slippage, although I have not seen any specific
scientific testing to validate this claim.
I have spoken with some motorcycle owners who switched from an automotive oil which may have
contained friction modifiers to a synthetic motorcycle specific motor oil and noticed a significant
increase in top end speeds (10 to 20 mph) immediately. This could be an indication that there was
clutch slippage occurring before the switch. However, it is also possible that this increase is due to
simply switching to a better formulation of oil which provides better performance. I have no way to say
one way or the other.
What is important to note is this: Just as 10W-40 and 20W-50 weight oils are exempt from the
zinc/phosphorus limits put in place by API SJ specifications, these same grade oils are exempt from the
fuel efficiency mandates that the SJ rating requires. Thus, it is not necessary for motor oil
manufacturers to add friction modifiers to their 40 and 50 weight motor oils.
Therefore, it cannot be assumed that just because an oil meets API SJ specs it must contain friction
modifiers. It doesn't have to. Some automotive 10W-40 and 20W-50 motor oils may contain no friction
modifiers whatsoever. This could only be determined by speaking with the manufacturer themselves.
Unfortunately, if that manufacturer also carries a motorcycle specific brand of oil, it is likely that they
would point you that direction and avoid answering the question. This is because their motorcycle
specific oil generally costs more and makes them a better profit.
So, in the real world, here's where you stand. Just because a 10W-40 or 20W-50 automotive oil meets
SJ specs, that doesn't mean that it contains friction modifiers, although it might. There is no scientific
evidence that indicates that friction modifiers cause clutch slippage, although some anecdotal evidence
suggests that it is possible.
Therefore, if you want to take the risk, you could use any automotive oil you wish (although preferably
synthetic) and take your chances in regards to clutch slippage. If slippage does occur, you'll likely need
repairs sooner than if no slippage occurred. If you don't want to take the risk, but don't mind making
some phone calls, you might be able to find an automotive oil which you can be certain does not
contain friction modifiers. This might take some digging though.
If, on the other hand, you don't want to waste your time on all that research but don't want to risk clutch
slippage, find a good motorcycle specific oil that won't cost you an arm and a leg and stick with it.
However, look for motorcycle specific oil that is still SJ rated. This assures you that you've got the latest
in motor oil technology but designed for wet-clutch compatibility.
There is a wide range in pricing for motorcycle specific oils. Petroleum based products can range in the
$2.00 to $5.00 or more depending on who you purchase from. Keep in mind they are still petroleum oil -
nothing all that special, but at least you'll be sure there are no friction modifiers. Synthetic based
motorcycle specific oils range from about $6.00 up to $12 per quart.
Believe it or not, the best of the pack is the least expensive of any of them and offers extended drain
intervals to boot.

[The Rayman]

Originally Posted by OneTrack

I had my 1st service performed at the selling dealership, and they installed Motul mineral oil. This caused some issues, particularly a "screech" that would come from the clutch on occasion when engaging it. When I got to about 2000 km's, I decided to install some synthetic oil.

Did you actually see them put the Motul in? I use Motul 3000/5100 in all my bikes and have NEVER had this problem. Ever. For the record I've used Motul, Mobil 1, and Rotella with almost exact results, with the only big difference being cost. My FZ6 has Motul 3000 20w-50 in it right now with perfect clutch/shifting characteristics. Just my 2 cents.

[travisj37]

Am I the only one who just puts in regular Yamalube 4-stroke, about which there is no debate as to its fitness as a motorcycle oil?

I got it at the dealer for $4.99 a quart, which I didn't think was all that bad... It's not synthetic, but everything seems smooth as could be.

[4fun]

Could the difference in vibration between the Amsiol and Rotella have something to do with putting the Amsoil in right after the Motul? I currently use Amsoil and have no issue. I am in need of an oil change, maybe I will try the Rotella Synthetic and see it changes anything. I just need to find out where to get it.

[bmccrary]

Originally Posted by The Rayman

Did you actually see them put the Motul in? I use Motul 3000/5100 in all my bikes and have NEVER had this problem. Ever. For the record I've used Motul, Mobil 1, and Rotella with almost exact results, with the only big difference being cost. My FZ6 has Motul 3000 20w-50 in it right now with perfect clutch/shifting characteristics. Just my 2 cents.

Nice to see some one else running Motul. It's great stuff!

I have heard good things about the 300v, just havent tried it yet.

-bryan

[bmccrary]

Originally Posted by BranNwebster

Motorcycle specific oil is hype, and a way for you to spend 10+ dollars a quart.

Its not about having a motorcycle specific oil. I personally will never buy oil from walmart. The reason their prices are so cheap is part to do with how they buy it. At one point on of the local walmarts was carrying Sea-Doo oil which is not supposed to happen since they refuse to sell it to any one but dealers. How did they get it?

There was train wreck... the railraod purchased the products that were involved in the wreck and walmart purchased it.

The oil may have been fine, but doesnt that make you question the rest of the products that they carry? Ever wonder why almost all the things you get from wally world seem to always break?

Just support your shops guys. You will be surprised to find what they carry and what they will order as well.

I mean honestly have you ever tried to have a talk with the cashier at walmart and talk about some close calls and a few good roads?

-bryan